How to Replace Car Fuses

Replacing a fuel pump fuse is just as easy as replacing any blown fuse in your car. If your car cranks but won’t start up there could be a problem with your fuel pump. Before taking it to your mechanic who may diagnose the problem as a failed fuel pump, you’ll want to check and replace the fuel pump fuse. Sometimes the cause of a non-working fuel pump is just the fuse.

Locate your fuse box – Many cars have their fuse boxes built up into the dashboard, usually in the bottom left under the steering wheel. Some models may have their fuse boxes located near the glove compartment and others still will have their fuses located in a box in the engine compartment. You may even find it in your trunk.

Use your car’s manual, or if you don’t have that then a quick search on Google with your car’s make and model should help you locate your fuse box in your car.

Remove the fuse for the fuel pump – Most cars have a separate fuse for the fuel pump, so the diagrams in your manual should help you locate the right fuse. Some fuses may be numbered or lettered and sometimes a diagram or list is right on the inside of the fuse box cover. Once you have located the correct fuse, pull it out and look at it closely. If the inside of the fuse looks dark or blackened, you have a blown fuse. Also if the metal of the fuse itself seems cracked, or broken, you have a blown fuse.

Put in a new fuse – You can pick up fuses at any auto parts store and they are generally very inexpensive. Most fuses will cost under a dollar a piece. You may want to purchase a pack of fuses for future use. If you aren’t sure if your car takes special fuses, or if the fuel pump fuse is different from the other fuses you’ll need to take the fuse to the auto store. Just have them look up your car’s make and model and they will be able to tell you the exact fuse that will work.

Replace the cover and start up – Make sure the fuse is placed in the right direction and is firmly in place. Replace the cover so it snaps into place. Start your car. If the fuel pump fuse was the problem, your car should start up with no problem.

But what if the fuse blows again and again?

If the fuel pump fuse blows over and over again you may have a dying fuel pump, clogged fuel pump, or problem with the electrical system. If any of these issues is the cause of a fuse blowing multiple times, the fuse will usually blow again soon after it is replaced.

If you replace the fuse and the car doesn’t start, there could be a number of causes for it. If it is the fuel pump, you’ll need the fuel pump replaced. However checking and replacing the fuel pump fuse first is always a good idea. Due to the amount of time and labor it takes to replace a fuel pump, you can save a lot of money and hassle if the problem was just a fuse.


2009 Bmw M3

The 2009 BMW M3 brings a new standard to sport sedans and coupes. Under the hood of this lavish and exhilarating new look, is a 4.0L V8, instead of a straight-six power unit that has been inside the M3 for 15 years. At8,300 rpm, the M3 will produce 420 hp, 87 more hp than the competing Audi S4. Not only is the M3 more powerful than the S4, but quicker. The M3 will travel 0-60 mph in 4.6 seconds, a half of a second less than the S4, and the same as the more expensive and more gas consuming Audi RS4.

One of the cooler new options in the M3 is the seven-speed Double Clutch Gearbox with paddle shifters located on the steering wheel. The engineers of the new M3 decided to take it to the limit by providing a new option other than the traditional 6-speed manual transmission.How it works: When shifting up or down-shifting, the transmission system engages a clutch and then disengages the other.This allows the M3 to shift quicker and cuts off any split-second shifting time.

However, it is not just the new V8 engine or new Double Clutch tranny that make the M3 so magnificent, but the aerodynamic new design as well.The M3 takes a brand new aggressive look.The front apron and side air intakes let in more air to the engine along with a mean first glance as drivers see the M3 in the rear view mirror.The rear grille and 4 exhaust pipes, gives even more character to the M3 as well.

Other exterior luxuries include M light 18/19 inch double spoked alloy wheels and exclusive M glossy colors such as sparkling graphite, alpine white, interlagos blue.

The interior is flawless except for the entertainment system. The new hands-on system in all BMW automobiles has been identified to be a little too hard to use. For those of us who are not so technologically gifted, the M3 and all other BMW’s for that matter, will be difficult to operate at first. To the credit of BMW, the new system is convenient in the way that there is no reaching over to touch the navigation screen with our oily fingers or turn the dial to switch the station on the radio. One can simply turn the wheel, conveniently located in front of the glove compartment, that is used for all actions regarding entertainment, communication, and climate control.

However, being a passenger in the M3 is not so desirable. Even in the M3 sedan, there is not too much space to move your legs freely. Everything is relatively compact. It is hard to find a sports sedan that has the leg room that everyone wants. After all, no car is perfect.

Fuel Economy: The M3 will get 14 mpg (city)/20 mpg (highway). Not too great in this day and age; however, it is better than the S4’s 13 mpg (city)/19 mpg (highway).

Price: The M3 is listed at an estimated starting price of $54k for the sedan, $57k for the coupe, and $64k for the convertible. The Audi S4 ranges from about $57k to $67k.

The BMW M3 is everything one could want in a sports coupe or sedan, and perhaps too much. Forthis reason, you need to be the type of person who wakes up ready to drive. But if your the type who does not particularly enjoy driving all the time, then keep looking. The 2009 BMW M3 is for someone who wants luxury, performance, and some head turns.


Loose Relay

The procedure of how to fix a loose fuel pump relay involves changing a connector assembly with the wires. This is known as a pigtail. This is because there are multiple wires connected to a fuel pump relay, the only way it can come loose is if the connectors on those wire terminals are bad. The reason why you need to change the entire pigtail is because the ends that push onto the terminals on the relay are what mess up. They get loose in the plastic body of the connector that holds them and can even fall out leaving you with a very hard to find (and frustrating) wiring problem. Another (free of charge) way you can do it is to remove the connector, and put the wires back on the correct terminals on the relay. This is not recommended because it makes future diagnosis and repairs to this system more difficult.

Since the correct way to fix a loose relay is to change the pigtail. Changing a pigtail is not hard to do, as it only involves removing the old connector by cutting the wires (1 by 1), and splicing them on the correct corresponding wire on the replacement part. Once each wire has been cut loose from the old connector, and the new connector (pigtail) spliced back into place, the repair is done. As far as how to splice the wires together, there are many ways to do this, and information on how to splice wires together can easily be found with a quick search in the search bar at the top of this page. The preferred way is to solder the wires together, and cover them with heat shrink, but many people do many different things, and it really does not matter as long as a good connection, that will not come loose or let naked wires touch anything, is made in the splice.

Of course all of this assumes that you already know that the problem is with the fuel pump relay connector. Finding the cause of problems like this is usually a daunting task, and people who go this far are usually just changing parts and hoping for the best results. When things don’t always work out the way you wanted them to, you need to get some help. Knowing how to diagnose electrical problems and how to use a voltmeter would be essential skills needed in order to properly diagnose a problem like this. Though it is common to have bad relay connectors on some GM products from the early 2000s, simply pushing the loose terminal back into the connector will fix it. This is also the with those pesky MAP sensor connectors that cause so many engine lights to come on in the 90s model vehicles. Mechanics are happy that the connectors were redesigned to something that is a lot sturdier.

Thanks for reading and good luck!


2009 Ford Escape

The 2009 Ford Escape is big on versatility, small on price and great on gas mileage. Starting at only $20,100 for an Escape XLS with Manual transmission, $21,310 for an Escape XLS, $23,115 for an Escape XLT, and $24,580 for an Escape Limited, these offer great value for a sports utility vehicle. Although a smaller SUV than it’s cousin the Ford Explorer, the 2009 Ford Escape has more than it’s share of power and pulling capabilities.

The overall performance of the 2009 Ford Escape is due to the Duratec 2.5 Liter, I-4 engine, that produces 171 Horsepower. With front wheel drive, independent front and rear suspension, and roll stability control the 2009 Ford Escape assures a smooth ride. A 5-speed manual transmission, 4-wheel anti-lock brakes, and a 1500 pound maximum trailer weight allow great control of cargo. Electric power-assisted steering gives the illusion of driving a sports car rather than an SUV.

On the exterior, the 2009 Ford Escape is not the typical box shaped sports utility vehicle. Sleek lines of design are accompanied by 16 inch cast aluminum wheels, giving the appearance of stylish transportation. The 2009 Ford Escape features solar tinted glass, reflector halogen headlamps, and an easy opening lift gate flip up glass.

On the interior, low back front bucket seats, manual air conditioning, and an analog instrument cluster make driving a happy experience. The 2009 Ford Escape has a floor console with 2 front and 2 rear cup holders, power window and door locks, a rear window defroster, and a center dome light with bright map lights. The standard sound system in the 2009 Ford Escape is wonderful, and consists of an AM/FM stereo with CD player and an audio input jack. This feature should help the driver in giving the children something to occupy their time.

The safety features of the 2009 Ford Escape are nothing short of spectacular. Dual stage front airbags and front seat mounted side airbags protect the driver and passenger in the front very well. Side curtain airbags and a rollover sensor are usually present in a higher priced vehicle, but the 2009 Ford Escape has them standard. A remote keyless entry and SecurLock passive anti-theft system protects the owners investment. Side intrusion door beams and a tire pressure monitoring system complete the safety package.

For a sports utility vehicle of this class, the 2009 Ford Escape compares most favorably, and is a good purchase. At the manufacturers suggested retail price, a consumer would be hard-pressed to find a better value.


How to Save Gas how to Cope with Rising Gas Prices Tips to Lower Gas Expenses

With the increased fuel prices we are all looking forward to going back to those days were filling up the tank was a more enjoyable experience. While waiting and waiting though, there are some things that we can do to at least make the most out of the gas we have already paid for.

Not many people are aware that it really does not take much to save some money and gas. These tips will help conserve some gas and hopefully delay your next trip to the station. Follow them carefully and you may have a bit more bang for your bucks spent at the pump.


What’s all the rush? Are you really late for work or your appointment or are you just eager to get there? Everybody seems nowadays to be rushing totally ignoring speed limits.
If you try to go at the exact speed limit you will notice that the majority of cars behind you will pass, and even give you that “are you a 70 year old behind the wheel?” stare.
Well, you can care less because the truth is driving slowly will get you to your destination safely while saving on gas. And guess what? You very well may meet all those that just passed you at the next red light anyway.

Is your car full of boxes, baby strollers, trash and a mix of unnecessary things? Well, it is time for you now to clean up. A lighter cars means less gasoline consumption. So get your gloves ready and clean up! This is a good time and you have good motivation to keep your car tidy, so take advantage of it.

Are you one of those drivers that accelerate quickly and then slams on the breaks? Well,this is not a good habit to start with, but consider as well that if you drive at a constant steady speed you will save some gas. Think about it.

OK, this may sound illegal but what it really means is try to not actually stop upon reaching a red light. Instead, try to glide smoothly and slowly, so by the time you are near the traffic light chances are it will have turned green. Refraining from stopping may save some gas. You can try to do the same if you spot traffic ahead. Just go slowly and be prepared to stop should the traffic still not be moving.

Did you know that gasoline evaporates if you park in full sun? Parking in the shade will keep your car pleasantly cool and will decrease the evaporation rate. This applies both to summer and winter. If you have no choice try at least to provide some shade to the gasoline tank.

OK, you know the scenario, you are meeting some friends at the new restaurant but you cannot find it. You go round and round for minutes, until a friend gives you proper directions. Finally, you get there after a good 20 minutes of wasting time and gas. GPS’s are much more affordable now than when they first came out. You do not need the coolest one out there that talks and makes you coffee, just go with a simple one that works.

Opened windows means more turbulence and therefore more fuel consumption.

First of all deflated tires are a safety hazard, so ensure your tires are filled up properly.
Inflated tires will reduce fuel waste.

Just as gas evaporates when exposed to the sun, gas can easily evaporate as well should there be an escape route through an un-tight cap. Should your cap not fit properly get it replaced.

Last but not least, learn to shop around for the best gasoline prices. You can do this today by visiting the following link, without even stepping out the door and comparing prices.

Simply put your zip code and you will have updated information of the current gas prices offered by your nearby gas stations.

Saving gas is important these days of outrageous gas prices. In our little we may do our share to decrease some of these expenses and at the same time increase fuel efficiency.
When prices will come down your happy smile and morale should go back up, in the meanwhile hopefully these survival skills will help us cope until the gas prices will be more reasonable.


How old is too old to Drive

Too old has always been a relative phrase. Some people are old at 65 while others still seem youthful at 85 or 90. Driving ability is based more on physical and mental conditions than on age. While many times age can be a factor in accidents, driving skills are the only real measurement that matters. So, drawing an arbitrary line at a certain age and prohibiting driving beyond that point is not a reasonable way to solve the risk factor of older drivers. Other measurements must be used to determine the fitness of a person to drive. These measurements need to be objective and verifiable. If they aren’t, some will be excluded who should not be driving, and others will be included whose driving skills are more than adequate.

Unlike in the case of young drivers where experience can make exponential differences in driving skill, older adults have more than enough experience. So, many declines can be readily offset by this experience unless the declines are severe. Health conditions, seeing and hearing abilities, and bodily strength all figure into one’s capacity to drive and control a car. Certain health risks need to be evaluated to determine if they have a high probability of causing a catastrophic loss of ability to control an automobile. An extremely weak or damaged heart might be one consideration here.

I once met a senior friend in a grocery store who told me from ten feet away that she could recognize me by my voice, but she couldn’t see me well enough to identify me by sight. She then left the store and drove herself home. This woman was not ancient, but had obviously reached a point in her declining vision where she should no longer have be driving. Fortunately, within about two weeks, her family persuaded her to sell her car and give up driving before a tragedy happened.

We already test for visual declines in most if not all states. Checks on the ability to recognize obvious road signs is tested, and this test also can detect some of the more severe mental declines. People are eliminated from driving based on these two test, which are aged biased against seniors and with a reasonable cause. Doctors monitor physical and mental abilities and sometimes report people who have declined beyond safe driving levels. Many unsafe drivers are found, but not all are discovered through these means.

I hate to see anyone lose a personal freedom like driving. However, with the aging U. S. population, it is time to address this issue more seriously and aggressively than we now do. Some states have moved in this area, but most have not. Perhaps having to pass a road test and/or a serious written test at 70 and every 5 to 10 years from there on would not be such a bad thing. Seniors who are still at high physical and mental capacity would have no problem. This would be a much more objective means to reach this need than the subjective opinions of sympathetic doctors and family members.


Road Rage how to Avoid Road Rage how to Deal with Agressive Drivers Agressive Driving

There are over 1,200 annually reported cases of road rage in the US; a quarter of them result in fatalities or serious injuries.

Most if not all drivers can relate to the term “road rage”: we might have been subjected to aggressive behaviour of other drivers, and we might have felt a hot swell of anger raising in our own chests when another road user did something blatantly unreasonable.

Road rage can be seen as an extreme manifestation of aggressive driving. “Aggressive driving” describes a range of behaviours. Some of them can be caused by other reasons, especially poor driving skills: sudden acceleration and braking, slow driving, late reactions, hesitation. Most involve purposeful actions on part of the driver: close tailgating, cutting others off, excessive use of horn and lights, rude gestures, facial expressions, verbal abuse and using the vehicle as means of intimidation and in extreme cases as a weapon, to intentionally cause a collision or force another driver to drive off road to avoid a crash. Most cases referred to as actual road rage will have an element of personal confrontation: at least a heated exchange of verbal invective, banging on the other car, throwing objects at it, attempted or actual physical assault to another driver.

The best way to avoid road rage is to distance ourselves from the situation. Defensive driving is the key to success. Make the car less part of your ego and more a tool used to achieve a particular end. Don’t give in to road rage yourself and learn how to avoid the rage of others.

* Give yourself enough time for your journey to avoid stress and frustration to do with being late. It’s easier said than done, but the less external reasons you have to rage, the less likely you are to give in to it.

* Try to empathise. “Slow drivers” are listed as one of the top annoyance on the road, just behind tailgating, but most of people who are driving slowly (and perhaps *too* slowly) do it for a reason. They might be a begginer driver. They might be feeling below par: tired, lacking sleep, coming back from a doctor’s with a flu and fever. They might be a foreigner not used to driving on our side of the road or unfamiliar with the traffic system and rules. They might be lost or looking for an address or a road coming off a highway. They might have a screaming baby in the car and dividing attention between the driving and the child. Give them the benefit of the doubt.

* Aggressive driving is the first step to road rage. Don’t indulge in aggressive driving yourself

* Don’t take it personally. It’s not all about you. Driving at 70 miles an hour on a public road is not the best place and time for ego trips and showing your winning instincts. It’s better to be late than dead. It’s better to feel momentarily humiliated than to be in hospital or court.

* Don’t get provoked but don’t get pushed. Drive the best you can with your skill, experience, knowledge of the area, the weather, car you are in and your mental and physical state. It’s not a competition.

* You cannot control the way other people drive. Trying to vent the frustration may make you do things you will regret later. You can’t change them. But you can control the way you react to them and it’s up to you whether you let their behaviour influence you. Yes, there some really bad drivers out there, but it’s better to do everything you can to calm down and back off.

* Most of all, keep a sense of proportion. There is no insult, real or perceived, that is worth dying for. There is very few that are worth a possible criminal record, custodial sentence or thousands of dollars spend on legal fees.

* Unless there was an accident and you are legally obliged to stop and/or exchange insurance details, don’t stop and get out of the car to talk to, reason with or confront the other driver. This will remove any temptation to go further than you might later consider reasonable, but it will also mean that he or she won’t have a chance to have a go at you.

* Try to find another outlet for your feelings of frustration and anger at bad driving of others. If the offender is a commercial vehicle, call their employer. If it’s a private car, note the numberplate and file a report on them on a site like , , or many others. You can also discuss your experience with other drivers on forums.

* Don’t retaliate. Keep calm. Don’t take the other driver’s behaviour personally. Don’t get involved, don’t get provoked: it often takes two to create a spiral of confrontation, and when each of you is armed with a fast moving pile of metal, things can get ugly, expensive and lethal.

* Make every attempt to get out of the way. If necessary, take the next exit off the highway/motorway or change your route to your destination. If you know you are not being followed, stop in a safe place and calm down.

* Don’t make eye contact: any expression of yours can be interpreted as aggressive and used to justify escalation by an rage-filled driver. Keep your eyes fixed on the road, concentrate on the driving and try to move away, calmly and efficiently.

* If you are being followed, don’t try to “lose” the other driver: it may make you drive dangerously and put you at risk of accident Keep to the speed limit, don’t jump the red lights. But don’t drive straight home or pull over and stop, either. Drive to the nearest police station and report the offender.

* Do everything to avoid physical confrontation. Don’t stop, don’t get out of the car. If you are already in this situation (for example you had a minor accident) and the other driver is starting to behave in an aggressive way, do everything to maintain calm but confident attitude.

More than 100 people die on American roads every single day, and almost 15 hundred are seriously injured. Don’t become a cipher in those statistics.


Car Reviews 2010 Nissan Pathfinder

The Nissan Pathfinder is one of the best off-road vehicles on the market for 2010.  It is also a great hauler and has seating for seven passengers, which will appeal to families.  Although, reviewers do report that the two back rows are slightly cramped.  This SUV has quite a few available trims consisting of, the base S FE+, S, SE, LE V6 and LE V8.

Under the hood of the S model you will find a 266-horsepower 4.0-liter V6, while the SE and LE have an optional 310-horsepower 5.6-liter V8.  The 2WD V8 engine has not been tested by the EPA, but the 2WD V6 gets 15 mpg in the city and 22 mpg on the highway.   The bigger engine and 4WD models prove to be fuel guzzlers too, with the 6 cylinder getting 14 mpg in the city and 20 mpg on the highway.  When the EPA tested the V8 FWD they got 13 mpg in the city and only 18 mpg on the highway. 

Both engines have a five speed automatic transmission, the SE also gets a manual shift too.  Drivers experienced smooth upshifts, but would prefer faster and better downshifts.  The Pathfinder is spirited around the city, and gets from 0-60 in 7.8 seconds.  It is not as smooth a handler as some of the crossover vehicles of this type, it seems to drive more like a truck.  There is some body roll, and the wide turning circle makes it difficult to manoeuvre this heavy weight vehicle.  Braking seems to be accurate and precise, and the Pathfinder handles well in a straight line at highway speeds.

On the interior the front seats are described as quite comfortable, adequate for the average driver.  There is a standard moonroof on the LE V6 model and the navigation system comes as standard on the LE V8.  If you have children they will be delighted with the LE V8 Value Package, which provides a rear DVD player and seven-inch color monitor.  The SE premium journey is also a new package that adds features like, XM Satellite Radio, a RearView Monitor, and 10-speaker Bose audio system. 

Cargo room is about average for this type of SUV, it has 79.2 cubic feet of space with all the seats folded down.  You will get 49.2 with the third row of seats folded, and 13.6 with all the seats in use.  Nissan states that there are 64 different seating and cargo settings to choose from.  With a price tag of $29,540 it is in the average bracket as far as expense for its class.  The 2010 Nissan Pathfinder does have a lot to offer, it is a great off road vehicle, there is plenty of space for cargo, and it handles adequately.  There are some drawbacks, such as, fuel economy and interior comfort, but it beats a lot of SUV’s in its class on other aspects.   


When Battery Cables need Replacing

In most cars, battery cables, like the Purloined Letter, occupy positions under the hood so much in plain sight as to remain invisible. In any case, the driver may check the oil and transmission fluid levels, the windshield washer reservoir and the coolant overflow container with only a cursory glance in the area of the battery (or batteries in some vehicles). The vehicle started up just fine this last time; why should it experience a malfunction in the area of its electrical system?

Even if the driver does look down at the battery and its two cables, he or she may not observe anything out of the ordinary. In the majority of cars, battery cables outlast the driver’s ownership of the car and may work fine right up to the day the car becomes fodder for the parting out industry. Manufacturers generally fabricate the cables of superior quality wiring protected with durable sheaths of heavy insulating material. They design this critical part of the vehicle to last.

If ignition problems do develop, however, and the driver (or qualified mechanic) can eliminate all other areas of the electrical system as the cause, the battery cables should come under close examination. This may require removing them from the engine compartment to facilitate the inspection.

First remove the negative cable from the battery. Look for a negative or minus (-) sign on the battery or on the cable. (Identify the positive cable by its red color or by a plus (+) sign.) Remove the cable by loosening the retaining bolt that clamps it to the battery post; avoid forcing the cable free. Follow the cable back to the engine block and loosen the bolt that attaches the cable to the block.

With the cable free turn it around in your hands and scrutinize the insulation along its entire length. Look for breaks or excessive wear. Wear often occurs where the cable bends over an edge of the battery. Look for signs of serious corrosion on the metal parts of the cable. These and similar defects may remain invisible to casual inspection, but easily can cause a disruption in the ignition process of starting the vehicle.

Examine the positive cable in the same thorough manner after removing it from the battery and from the starter solenoid. A definitive test of the battery cables may require installing new cables (with contingency of returning them if ignition problems still persist); if the vehicle starts OK, this will prove one or both of the old cables had failed.


2004 Toyota Echo Review

I still remember back in 2002, a relative of mine got a better deal on a brand new 2003 Corolla, than she would of gotten on a brand new 2002 Echo, with a start like this one; you pretty much know what I’m going to say about this car….

This is one of those vehicles that’s given the quote “environmentally conscious” a bad rap. Whether you want to agree or not: this car is not-and will never be a Prius, and unlike the Prius the Echo looks cheap….

Of course the Yaris was a big improvement from the Echo…looks better, and even has more room than the Echo could have ever dreamed of having; plus the price isn’t that much more than its predecessor was. But a few inches here and there turned the Echo into a much better vehicle; hence the reason sales on the Yaris are quite good, and people who don’t have a lot of money feel good about purchasing a Toyota product at Chevy prices.

With 14 inch wheels standard; it’s silly to expect Audi/BMW performance on this vehicle of course, but to add insult to injury, it just doesn’t measure up. Even when you put 15 inch wheels, it still falls flat. Of course one thing the Echo has which might discourage one from purchasing one; hence the reason the model doesn’t exist anymore is: the price…. You can purchase a Chevy Cavalier, Toyota Corolla, or Nissan Sentra for about the same price as you would an Echo depending on how good your haggling skill are, and opting you chances of survival just a notch in the process if you’re involved in a car accident with-say: a Rover, Escalade, etc…. Of course your chances won’t be good either way, but on an Echo: it’s almost a given what to expect if one has a collision with one of these behemoths!

The 2004 Echo was/is 164 inches long, it was smaller than even the Aveo-another unacceptable car; although the Aveo is slightly better looking and just a tad larger than the Echo was/is by about 5 inches, and of course: the Corolla is over a foot longer than the Echo was/is. The Echo’s best feature was its trunk size. 13.6 cubic feet of cargo space: making it larger than the 2008 Lexus GS; which only has a trunk size of 12.7 cubic feet. So no worries about where to put the groceries; something you would most likely done/need to do: since this car is as modest as it gets/got in the automotive world, and chances are you wouldn’t have a maid to go shopping for you if you own this vehicle, and if you were rich and drove an Echo: then you didn’t do your research very well or you would most likely have purchased another car. Side impact airbags aren’t available on the Echo. You might as well be in a motorcycle if you own/owned one, and to make things worse: no anti-lock braking system. This means your chances of getting out of control should be considerable; since the car is very lightweight to begin with, and of course beings’ there are no side impact airbags: the situation should be Shakespearian, if not interesting to say the least. Another good thing once can say about this vehicle is of course reliability is quite good, but then what else can one expect from a Toyota product, just few expected they would ever conjure up this vehicle, and even though MPG is good on this vehicle; it isn’t good enough to choose it over the Corolla….